Venture up one of its winding callejones, and chances are you’ll find yourself stuck behind a donkey and cart or swept up in a callejoneada — a brass-wielding parade of university students ensuring their city is one that definitely never sleeps. 

And sleep you won't with dates covering Latin America's biggest cultural festival, Cervantino! A 3-week extravaganza that transforms the city into an open-air playground showcasing musicians, painters, poets and performing artists from across the globe. 

Don't be shocked if your nightly stroll home, much like mine did, gets sidetracked by a local waving you into a dive bar you didn't know existed - Los Lobos, I'm looking at you. "Solo una tequila”. Yeah, right. 

Before you know it, it's 3am, you've somehow ended up in a motorcycle jacket that definitely isn't yours, and you're face-first in a plate of enchiladas mineras at one of the city's late night taco stands. 

Don't stress about the hangover, the cure lies in the pulque bar next door :-)