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By Katy A seasoned budget traveller, Editor Katy has already been to every country in the EU, and is gradually ticking off the rest of the world - when she can bear to leave her cats.
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…but you’re worried about all the tourists? You’re not alone.
Even with a reputation for being firmly on the beaten track, lots of us just can’t shake that longing to see the lush terraced rice paddies and Hindu temples of Ubud with our own eyes.
The JFC Facebook community seems to be chock-full of Bali-ebers (hey, if Justin Bieber can do it, so can Bali). So when member Laurie shared her draft itinerary and admitted that she was overwhelmed by the choice of places to visit there, it was all hands on deck!
First up, sorting out the schedule. With around three weeks, how would JFC-ers divide their time? Our main takeaway: Ubud is worth the hype!
“I went to quite a few places for my honeymoon in September. We did Canggu, Ubud, Lombok, all 3 Gilis, and Uluwatu. Our favourite places were Gili T, Uluwatu and Ubud, but your favourites will depend on what kind of traveller you are!
We were also worried about Bali being too touristy (we didn’t love Santorini for that reason) but definitely didn’t find it bad at all.
I would say you probably want to condense the amount of places and spend more time in each one. We moved around every few days and it did feel a bit hectic.
I’d say miss out Kuta (we didn’t go but it hasn’t got a great rep) and I don’t think you need as long in Nusa Penida. You can do a day trip there from Bali if you want to, although we’re quite glad we didn’t go, as our friends said it’s not for the faint-hearted when it comes to climbing down the rocks to the beach!
You could probably also choose between Canguu and Seminyak depending on what kind of vibe you like (apparently Seminyak has glitzier hotels and shopping).
Would go back to Bali in a heartbeat, despite the negative press it seems to get these days!” - Amy
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“I recommend doing Leke Leke Waterfall, it was magical. I would do 4 nights in Ubud if possible. There is just so much to do. We also did a rafting tour, didn't expect much of it, but it was amazing. Just paddling through the jungle. I think 2 nights on Penida is indeed enough.
I also did a water purification, not at the touristy spots. But at a waterfall where it felt so pure. It was raining when I was doing it, which made it even more special!! It's called Beji Griya Waterfall” - Fien
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Kuta, on the other hand, is nobody's favourite:
“Consider doing Ubud, Seminyak, Gili Air and Komodo. Kuta is just a very busy city type place—you can do a day trip to Kuta or stop there on the way from Seminyak to Ubud.” - Anu
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“Kuta and Seminyak are literally 10 min apart, so I’d personally do that as one area. Ubud is absolutely amazing, and I highly recommend the Mount Batur overnight trek. We found this such a chilled vibes place, late night coffee bars etc.
I finished my trip with a full week in Gili T and wow, I wish we did longer! We took the boat across to the other 2 Gili islands, but it was hard to top Gili T. It’s probably the best place I’ve ever been to, it has something for everyone (or at least it did my multiple personalities) Maybe overly busy with tourists now, it was 6 years ago when I was there.” - Bethany
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Despite its tiny stature, Gili Trawangan gets rave reviews. Unlike much of Bali, you won’t find any mopeds here, so it’s all about that bicycle life. It’s the place to go for snorkelling, diving, and catching epic sunsets by the shore. And that’s all before the nightlife kicks in!
But over the water lies the real gem in Indonesia’s island crown—Lombok.
“Lombok was great after staying in Bali (Denpasar). Totally different cultures, and Lombok is less crowded. We spent 4 days in Bali, then took a fast boat to Lombok (via the Gilis). After 4 days in Lombok, we flew back to Bali.
We stayed at the Puri Mas. It was exceptional. It is owned by Dutch ex-world ballroom champions, who used it initially as their residence until the law changed, prohibiting foreigners from owning villas on the coast. They developed the site and built their residence a couple of miles inland, which is also the spa. The accommodation is amazing, quirky and memorable for all the right reasons.
There is a fair bit to see and do. We went on some tours (just the two of us) that included the monkey sanctuary, a village life tour and trekking. We went on a trip to the Gilis and snorkelling (these can be arranged through the concierge). Private tours too, and relatively cheap.
We also chatted to the bar staff, and they took us to their village one evening for supper.”- Frank
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“Get a boat over to Lombok. Highlight of my Bali trip tbh. Far less touristy.” - Laura
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Just next door, but so much less popular with the Instagram crowd (except maybe Pink Beach!). The landscape on Lombok is varied, with hikeable volcanoes, a deluge of waterfalls, and a huge selection of quiet beaches, where you can build sand castles without worrying some big brute will come and kick them over. Unless you’re on Selong Belanak beach at sunset when the water buffalo come out.
And then there’s the home of some slightly more prehistoric brutes:
“Komodo is a must do! Two nights in Flores makes it work.” - Keith
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Flores is much less developed for tourism than Bali or Lombok, but as the gateway to world-famous dive sites and real life dragons in Komodo National Park, we can’t imagine that’ll last too long. Especially when the influencers realise the Pink Beaches there are actually much pinker than Lombok’s!
Since you’ll already be living on the edge, surrounded by dinosaurs, you may as well have a go at more adventurous activities like canyon jumping and cave swimming while you’re there. But there is another side to the islands, which you’ll discover on a trek to the traditional highland village of Wae Rebo.
Or if you really want to get off the beaten track...
“Consider Rinca instead of Komodo. Fewer tourists and the same ‘dragons’!” - Paul
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We always love a tip for escaping the crowds. Thanks, Paul!
As with any popular destination, some JFC-ers found those top spots to be the most overrated, and would even recommend skipping:
“Went to see Kelingking Beach and loads of other things in Nusa Penida, and we really felt the Instagram VS reality. It was so rammed, finding space to get a photo was almost impossible. We’d probably skip it next time for that reason, plus I hated seeing horses being used for transport in that heat!”- Josh
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“We hated Lovina. Lots of plastic on the beach and everyone chasing poor dolphins on the motor boats. We ended up not taking a boat trip because we were pestered so much and it all sounded horrible.” - Kasia
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To wrap up this Bali special, I’ll leave you with JFC social media guru Josh’s top tips on how to make your Bali trip extra memorable…
“I got bitten by a monkey. We were in Ubud Monkey Forest, and saw signs about avoiding touching etc., so we were extra careful when walking along the paths. I leant against a railing to watch a monkey climbing a tree, and I hadn’t realised that another one had got on the railing and come right up to me until it was holding my hand.
I stood up so I wasn’t leaning anymore, and it was still holding my hand. I just thought, “No way this is so cool! What do I do?” Then it crawled up my arm and checked the pockets of my rucksack (which we had specifically shut beforehand) before crawling back down and holding my hand again.
Then out of nowhere, it just leaned forward and bit my chest! Not enough to break the skin, and it didn’t hurt, but I think I was looking at it and must’ve looked it in the eye by mistake. Apparently that can make them aggressive (as the sign said). We deliberately went to the forest in the afternoon after feeding time because they tend to be less aggressive then, but this is so typical for me.
Weirdly, my twin brother had the exact same thing happen to him at the same place a year before! He was sitting down and one just jumped up and bit him… probably the same monkey.
So, moral of the story, triple-check the signs when you visit the forest and don’t look them in the eye!
To add insult to injury, I then fell off a moped and ruined my knee. If you do get on a moped, AVOID sand and grit if you can. Apparently they lose grip easily! I had to miss swimming with the manta rays because of my knee.
Then I got Bali belly. The best way you can be sure to avoid it is by only drinking bottled stuff, or you can get these tablets and start taking them beforehand… Neither of which I did!
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Sounds to me like you'll have to go back and try again, Josh!
So tell me, readers, what did you think of Bali? Highs and lows, we want to hear it all. Just hit ‘Reply’ to get in touch!
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Last week, I mentioned that we’d had a phenomenal response to our piece on one-bag travel. And by that I mean that you, dear readers, are incredibly enthusiastic about your bags and what goes in them! So now I’m going to turn it over to the Passionate Packers of the Detour readership to share all their advice.
"I did a 100 day trip last year and currently doing a 70 day trip in my Osprey Sojourn 45L / 22” carry-on with wheels. My day pack is Matador ultralight 28L Beast. I use 2 large and 1 medium packing cubes.
I packed an inflatable memory foam pillow that I used once. I will leave this pillow at home in the future. I broke down and bought a neck pillow for the 16 flights that I have had to endure during my 70 day adventure to Oahu, Bali, Komodo Island, Borneo, Jakarta, Yogyakarta, Delhi, Maldives, Sri Lanka, Dubai and back home to San Francisco.
I thought about getting merino wool underwear but it’s so expensive compared to bamboo which is anti-bacterial and moisture wicking. I found in Yogyakarta for $1. I see online for $10 which is still cheaper than $30 icebreaker merino wool underwear.
I can and have worn my merino wool shirts for 5 days and do not smell body odor but I draw the line at underwear, and change daily!
My packing list of items fit nicely in my Osprey carry-on. It weighs in at 8.8 kg. If I take out my toiletries then my carry-on weighs in at 7.8kg. I’ve removed the backpack straps from the carry on to place my Keen sandals. I like the idea of using shower caps as covers.
Every chance I get I look for a laundromat to self wash my clothes otherwise I will wash a couple of underwear, shirt and pants every 3 to 4 days. A trick for overnight drying is I roll my underwear in a towel to get rid of excess water then lay my underwear on top of the hotel refrigerator. The warmth dries my underwear overnight.
My packing list has got me through two tours. I might leave the headlamp home as well as the memory foam pillow and just use the flashlight on my iPhone.
Thanks again for many more tips on using just a carry-on for travel!" - Rhonda, avid traveler and reader of JFC
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100 days in one bag? We are in awe! Rhonda officially gets the award for JFC's most efficient packer. She did also provide a full packing list, but frankly there were so many things in there that I just couldn't share them all. Nice work!
"My one bag packing tip: I have a color theme each travel! I traveled to Madrid and stayed for a month taking care of a cat and all my clothes were in brown, beige and white. I had one crossover shoulder bag and one pair of sandals.
Last summer for almost six weeks, I was in orange and white. Last Christmas for three weeks: only in white. Easter, only black. And this May I'm going to the US for three weeks in lemon green."
- Talé |
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I like your style, Talé! This summer's theme for me seems to be pink and orange. I'm thinking Starburst chic?
"We are very grateful that the airlines encouraged us to reduce our rucksack size for longer trips a few years ago. Now, whether it's 2 months or 2 days, we would never consider paying for a bag.
Just a couple of recommendations we'd make (and no, I'm not on commission!):
- A Uniqlo jacket. They really do pack in very, very small but offer reasonable warmth, and ours were around £60.
- Vivobarefoot shoes. A complete game changer for us. Ultra-light to pack when you don't need them and superb for any long-distance walks, whatever the terrain, although most are not waterproof though. We've walked all of UK National Trails in them, nearly 2,000 miles!
- Detachable trousers and lightweight thermal top. No explanations needed but ideal for variable climates.
We're off to Japan in May and India in June and even though our long-haul flights give us free bags, domestic flights ensure we won't be tempted to go large, bag wise." - Alan and Agnieszka
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Even more handy tips for kit to invest in here. And as a bonus, those detachable trousers will fit right in if you find yourself at a Magic Mike show! We love a multipurpose garment.
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